Wood Countertops from Brooks Custom
Butcher Block Troubleshooting Guide
Occasionally details arise from delivery, installation or use.
These pages may answer some questions or offer help.
You are always welcome to contact us directly.
It often helps to email some digital pictures of a problem as well as some shots of the general site conditions.
"Premium Wide Plank"TM
Your new top comes with a stain, water, and alcohol proof finish designed to last for decades.
The wood members have been kiln dried, triple straightened, and is of premium choice. They are as blemish free as possible.
You may expect some minimal amount of curving or warping and checking in each top.
| PROBLEM | DESCRIPTION | CAUSE | TO REPAIR |
|---|---|---|---|
| New tops | |||
| Checking, splitting | Slight openings in the edge or end grain, Narrow splits in the top. These details do not hold filler well | Details such as this are considered to be normal for wood countertops. They move slightly and are a part of the charm of natural wood. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to change with the seasons as well. Wax or epoxy fillers in cracks and splits are a good temporary fix. Normal movement is a characteristic of healthy wood tops. |
| Shape deflection | Curving or warping. | Deflection up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable and normal. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to move and change with the seasons as well. no fix required. |
| Warping | Top is "cupping" upward at edges or "bowing" upward in the center. | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat or moisture source that has not been sealed off at installation. | Reinstall top. Seal off dishwashers, microwaves, hvac ducts, etc. with sheet metal and caulking. Redirect any hi velocity hvac or blowers. |
| Warping | Top is turning downward at an overhang. | Lack of support at overhang | Install overhang support. Deflection of up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable. Let top acclimate. |
| Existing tops | |||
| Finish | Finish is flaking at sink opening. Wood underneath looks bare and split. | Damage to the original finish has not been dressed with oil to reseal these small openings. | Occasional coats of Linseed or Tung oil to reseal and build up the finish at the sink opening. |
| Finish | Dark or black area around a faucet | The faucet leaks. Blackness comes from constant wetness. | Reseal and possibly repair the faucet. |
| Finish | Shiny or dull areas in the finish. | Use of very fine or very course abrasives in local areas.. | Scour the entire top evenly with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Apply a coat or our special restorer oil. |
| Finish | Staining, spotting, water rings, food stains, etc. | Excessive scrubbing or washing over time, without oiling or waxing have removed the finish. | Send for our "finish restorer" and apply several coats as directed. |
| Splitting, End checking | Excessive open splitting at glue joints. Large open checks at board ends. | Possible heat or humidity source. Possible manufacturing defect. (Tight splits and checks would be normal) | Contact us. Send sharp email photos of the problem and the surrounding areas. |
| Warping | Top cupping or bowing | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat source that has not been sealed off at installation. Lack of support at overhang | Remove source of heat and moisture. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. Install corbels or support at overhang. |
| "Board Creep" | At one or more glue line joints. Boards differ in height or position. | Natural movement in time. Often mistaken for splitting. | This is a feature of wood tops due to natural movement and expansion. It is not a problem. |
| Rail Expansion | One rail raised above balance of top | Raised rail expanding at faster rate than other | Continue oiling or waxing as instructed for regular maintenance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. |
| Damage | Nicks, gouges, dents, etc. | External environment | Such damage may accumulate over time. These may be minimized by using our "finish restorer". |
| Mineral Streaks | Dark streak in the wood | Natural discoloring of the wood due to mineral deposits | No repair needed – adds to individuality of your Butcher Block! |
| Residue on counter surface | Gummy residue on the counter top Areas of flat finish or lack of gloss. | Build up of excess oil Not removing excess oil after application. | This residue can be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. Wet a piece of paper towel with mineral spirits, or naphtha. Apply liberally to the entire top. wait for the oils to start dissolving. If necessary scrub lightly with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Wipe the counter top down to absorb any dissolved or excess oil. Finish the process by wiping with a dry absorbent paper towel until the top is dry. Wait one day then re-oil or wax and buff (wipe down) the top with a paper towel. Leave untouched overnight. |
Standard Plank
These tops have a Waterlox finish which is designed to wear and be recoated in one or two years.
Wood has been chosen at random and may contain some sapwood or mineral streaking.
| PROBLEM | DESCRIPTION | CAUSE | TO REPAIR |
|---|---|---|---|
| New tops | |||
| Checking, splitting | Slight openings in the edge or end grain, Narrow splits in the top. These tight cracks do not hold filler . | These details are considered to be normal for wood countertops. They move slightly and are a part of the charm of natural wood. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to change with the seasons as well. Wax or epoxy fillers in cracks and splits are a good temporary fix. Normal movement is a characteristic of healthy wood tops. |
| Shape deflection | Curving or warping. | Deflection up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable and normal. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to move and change with the seasons as well. no fix required. |
| Warping | Top is "cupping" upward at edges or "bowing" upward in the center. | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat or moisture source that has not been sealed off at installation. | Reinstall top. Seal off dishwashers, microwaves, hvac ducts, etc. with sheet metal and caulking. Redirect any hi velocity hvac or blowers. |
| Warping | Top is turning downward at an overhang. | Lack of support at overhang | Install overhang support. Deflection of up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable. Let top acclimate. |
| Existing tops | |||
| Finish | Finish is flaking at sink opening. Wood underneath looks bare and split. | Damage to the original finish is not being dressed with oil to reseal the openings. | Occasional coats of Waterlox Wood Finish to reseal and build up the finish at the sink opening. |
| Finish | Dark or black area around a faucet | The faucet leaks. Blackness comes from constant wetness. | Reseal and possibly repair the faucet. |
| Finish | Shiny or dull areas in the finish. | Use of very fine or very course abrasives in local areas.. | Scour the entire top evenly with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Apply a coat of Waterlox Wood Finish. |
| Finish | Staining, spotting, water rings, food stains, etc. | Excessive scrubbing or washing over time, without oiling or waxing have removed the finish. | Buy some "Waterlox finish" and apply several coats as directed. |
| Splitting, End checking | Excessive open splitting at glue joints. Large open checks at board ends. | Possible heat or humidity source. Possible manufacturing defect | Contact us. Send sharp email photos of the problem and the surrounding areas. |
| Warping | Top cupping or bowing | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat source that has not been sealed off at installation. Lack of support at overhang | Correct source of imbalance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. Install corbels or support at overhang. |
| "Board Creep" | At one or more glue line joints. Boards differ in height or position. | Natural movement in time. Often mistaken for splitting. | This is a feature of wood tops due to natural movement and expansion. It is not a problem. |
| Rail Expansion | One rail raised above balance of top | Raised rail expanding at faster rate than other | Continue oiling or waxing as instructed for regular maintenance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. |
| Damage | Nicks, gouges, dents, etc. | External environment | Such damage may accumulate over time. These may be minimized by using our "finish restorer". |
| Mineral Streaks | Dark streak in the wood | Natural discoloring of the wood due to mineral deposits | No repair needed – adds to individuality of your Butcher Block! |
| Residue on counter surface | Gummy residue on the counter top Areas of flat finish or lack of gloss. | Build up of excess oil Not removing excess oil after application. | This residue can be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. Wet a piece of paper towel with mineral spirits, or naphtha. Apply liberally to the entire top. wait for the oils to start dissolving. If necessary scrub lightly with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Wipe the counter top down to absorb any dissolved or excess oil. Finish the process by wiping with a dry absorbent paper towel until the top is dry. Wait one day then re-oil or wax and buff (wipe down) the top with a paper towel. Leave untouched overnight. |
Edge Grain
Your top has been finished and sealed with pure Linseed oil.
This type of top will loose moisture easily.
It needs to be maintained with regular oiling with Linseed or Butcher block dressing oil.
These tops are made for cutting ,chopping, and food prep. They will acquire a pattern of use in time.
| PROBLEM | DESCRIPTION | CAUSE | TO REPAIR |
|---|---|---|---|
| New tops | |||
| Checking, splitting | Slight openings in the edge or end grain, Narrow splits in the top. These tight cracks do not hold filler . | These details are considered to be normal for wood countertops. They move slightly and are a part of the charm of natural wood. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to change with the seasons as well. Wax or epoxy fillers in cracks and splits are a good temporary fix. Normal movement is a characteristic of healthy wood tops. |
| Shape deflection | Curving or warping. | Deflection up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable and normal. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to move and change with the seasons as well. no fix required. |
| Warping | Top is "cupping" upward at edges or "bowing" upward in the center. | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat or moisture source that has not been sealed off at installation. | Reinstall top. Seal off dishwashers, microwaves, hvac ducts, etc. with sheet metal and caulking. Redirect any hi velocity hvac or blowers. |
| Warping | Top is turning downward at an overhang. | Lack of support at overhang | Install overhang support. Deflection of up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable. Let top acclimate. |
| Existing tops | |||
| Finish | Finish is flaking at sink opening. Wood underneath looks bare and split. | Damage to the original finish is not being dressed with oil to reseal the openings. | Occasional coats of Waterlox Wood Finish to reseal and build up the finish at the sink opening. |
| Finish | Dark or black area around a faucet | The faucet leaks. Blackness comes from constant wetness. | Reseal and possibly repair the faucet. |
| Finish | Shiny or dull areas in the finish. | Use of very fine or very course abrasives in local areas.. | Scour the entire top evenly with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Apply a coat of dressing oil. |
| Finish | Staining, spotting, water rings, food stains, etc. | Excessive scrubbing or washing over time, without oiling or waxing have removed the finish. | Buy some raw Linseed oil and apply several coats as directed. |
| Splitting, End checking | Excessive open splitting at glue joints. Large open checks at board ends. | Possible heat or humidity source. Possible manufacturing defect | Contact us. Send sharp email photos of the problem and the surrounding areas. |
| Warping | Top cupping or bowing | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat source that has not been sealed off at installation. Lack of support at overhang | Apply oil liberally to concave side. If not corrected within 2 weeks, tape plastic (i.e. plastic liners, dry cleaning wrap, etc.) to the convex side and oil the reverse side every day. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. Install corbels or support at overhang. |
| "Board Creep" | At one or more glue line joints. Boards differ in height or position. | Natural movement in time. Often mistaken for splitting. | This is a feature of wood tops due to natural movement and expansion. It is not a problem. |
| Rail Expansion | One rail raised above balance of top | Raised rail expanding at faster rate than other | Continue oiling or waxing as instructed for regular maintenance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. |
| Damage | Nicks, gouges, dents, etc. | External environment | Such damage may accumulate over time. These may be minimized by using our "finish restorer". |
| Mineral Streaks | Dark streak in the wood | Natural discoloring of the wood due to mineral deposits | No repair needed – adds to individuality of your Butcher Block! |
| Residue on counter surface | Gummy residue on the counter top Areas of flat finish or lack of gloss. | Build up of excess oil Not removing excess oil after application. | This residue can be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. Wet a piece of paper towel with mineral spirits, or naphtha. Apply liberally to the entire top. wait for the oils to start dissolving. If necessary scrub lightly with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Wipe the counter top down to absorb any dissolved or excess oil. Finish the process by wiping with a dry absorbent paper towel until the top is dry. Wait one day then re-oil or wax and buff (wipe down) the top with a paper towel. Leave untouched overnight. |
End Grain Chopping Block
Your top has been finished and sealed with pure Linseed oil.
This type of top will loose and gain moisture easily.
It needs to be maintained with regular oiling with Linseed or Butcher block dressing oil.
These tops are made for cutting ,chopping, and food prep. They will acquire a pattern of use in time.
| PROBLEM | DESCRIPTION | CAUSE | TO REPAIR |
|---|---|---|---|
| New tops | |||
| Checking, splitting | Slight openings in the edge or end grain, Narrow splits in the top. These details do not hold filler . | These details are considered to be normal for wood countertops. They move slightly and are a part of the charm of natural wood. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to change with the seasons as well. Wax or epoxy fillers in cracks and splits are a good temporary fix. Normal movement is a characteristic of healthy wood tops. |
| Shape deflection | Curving or warping. | Deflection up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable and normal. | New tops need to acclimate. They continue to move and change with the seasons as well. no fix required. |
| Warping | Top is "cupping" upward at edges or "bowing" upward in the center. | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat or moisture source that has not been sealed off at installation. | Reinstall top. Seal off dishwashers, microwaves, hvac ducts, etc. with sheet metal and caulking. Redirect any hi velocity hvac or blowers. |
| Warping | Top is turning downward at an overhang. | Lack of support at overhang. End Grain tops need even support. | Install overhang support. Deflection of up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable. Let top acclimate. |
| Existing tops | |||
| Finish | Dark or black area around a faucet | The faucet leaks. Blackness comes from constant wetness. | Reseal and possibly repair the faucet. |
| Finish | Shiny or dull areas in the finish. | Use of very fine or very course abrasives in local areas.. | Scour the entire top evenly with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Apply a coat of dressing oil. |
| Finish | Staining, spotting, water rings, food stains, etc. | Excessive scrubbing or washing over time, without oiling or waxing have removed the finish. | Buy some raw Linseed oil and apply several coats as directed. |
| Splitting, End checking | Excessive open splitting at glue joints. Large open checks at board ends. | Possible heat or humidity source. Possible manufacturing defect | Contact us. Send sharp email photos of the problem and the surrounding areas. |
| Warping | Top cupping or bowing | Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat source that has not been sealed off at installation. Lack of support at overhang | Apply oil liberally to concave side. If not corrected within 2 weeks, tape plastic (i.e. plastic liners, dry cleaning wrap, etc.) to the convex side and oil the reverse side every day. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. Install corbels or support at overhang. |
| "Board Creep" | At one or more glue line joints. Boards differ in height or position. | Natural movement in time. Often mistaken for splitting. | This is a feature of wood tops due to natural movement and expansion. It is not a problem. |
| Rail Expansion | One rail raised above balance of top | Raised rail expanding at faster rate than other | Continue oiling or waxing as instructed for regular maintenance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. |
| Damage | Nicks, gouges, dents, etc. | External environment | Such damage may accumulate over time. These may be minimized by using our "finish restorer". |
| Mineral Streaks | Dark streak in the wood | Natural discoloring of the wood due to mineral deposits | No repair needed – adds to individuality of your Butcher Block! |
| Residue on counter surface | Gummy residue on the counter top Areas of flat finish or lack of gloss. | Build up of excess oil Not removing excess oil after application. | This residue can be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. Wet a piece of paper towel with mineral spirits, or naphtha. Apply liberally to the entire top. wait for the oils to start dissolving. If necessary scrub lightly with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Wipe the counter top down to absorb any dissolved or excess oil. Finish the process by wiping with a dry absorbent paper towel until the top is dry. Wait one day then re-oil or wax and buff (wipe down) the top with a paper towel. Leave untouched overnight. |
